Since the discovery of AHA – BHA – PHA, the number of products containing this active ingredient has become more diverse. Although studies show the benefits of these compounds a lot, but how to apply them in practice will raise issues that need to be kept in mind. The term you often hear in the notes before using the above active ingredients is PURGING. The article will describe the phenomenon and show you how to use the right products to successfully treat acne.
Every day, skin cells age and die; new cells are born. The problem is that the old cell layer is sometimes stubborn, so normal bathing activities cannot clean this layer. Although this layer of old cells, the stratum corneum, has the function of protecting the skin, if they are too thick and the rate of replacement is slow, they become a reservoir for bacteria that cause inflammation and, at the same time, clog pores, causing acne or preventing the healing process of acne.
READ MORE: Effective Tips for Managing Hormonal Acne: Clear Skin Basics
1. WHAT IS THE PURGING?
AHA – BHA- PHA does not cause epidermal cells to die; it only makes the bond between the keratin scales weaken and fall off naturally. Those active ingredients also have the ability to penetrate deep into pores and deeply cleanse. AHA is suitable for dry skin; BHA is suitable for oily skin.
When the stratum corneum is cleared and becomes thinner, the existing acne cores (Blind pimple) will be revealed, which speeds up the completion of the acne’s life cycle. It also makes popping pimples easier. This is the PURGING phenomenon.
You can imagine this phenomenon being similar to sowing seeds in hard soil. When a seed germinates, it will take a lot of time and energy to emerge from the ground. Dermatologically, when Blind pimple stays too long under the skin, it will cause inflammation.
2. DIFFERENTIAL BETWEEN PURGING & BREAKOUT
If you use high concentrations of AHA, BHA, and PHA to treat acne, it will likely cause confusion between PURGING and BREAK OUT (irritation).
Active ingredients will remove dead cells, helping pores to clear. The anaerobic bacteria P. acnes no longer have a favorable environment to operate; they will die, blend in white pus (acne core), and be removed from the skin.
Shortening the life cycle of acne helps avoid damage when acne remains too long in the epidermis.
During this process, more acne may appear than usual. But we must understand that we are proactively doing it.
| BREAK OUT | PURGING |
| – Massive inflammation of acne in skin areas that have never had acne, acne that takes a long time to accumulate.– May be accompanied by itching, redness, and burning. – If after 3 months of using BHA, AHA, or Retioids, the acne still does not decrease, there is a high possibility that the skin will break out. – Break out (not compatible with the product) can happen in any product, not just BHA/AHA/retioids. | – Inflammatory acne in skin areas that were previously hidden, rough acne. – There is no rash or itching in one area or the whole face (distinguished from mild itching in inflamed acne spots). – The acne condition improves after 1-2 months of use. – Acne usually dries quickly and rarely recurs. |
3. CONTROL PURGING – AVOID BREAK OUT
I must reiterate this:
Purging is promoting acne to heal quickly. This process can lead to the appearance of acne. However, this is an active and controlled process.
When it comes to breaking out, it means your skin is intolerant of a certain substance, causing irritation. For example, burning, numbness, or uncontrolled acne breakouts.
So how do we control the treatment from progressing badly into break out?
3.1. Maintain good habits
- Disinfect acne removal tools. Or go to medical facilities to squeeze acne.
- Exercise to increase physical strength and boost metabolism.
- Stop using foods that contain stimulants or spicy flavors.
- Reduce starch and increase eating more green vegetables. Especially vegetables that help increase anti-inflammatory properties (amaranth, kale, almonds, walnuts, oranges, blueberries, guava, etc.).
- Supplementing with omega 3 is also necessary.
- Clean bed gas, pillowcases, and towels regularly.
3.2. Simplify skin care routine
The purging process makes the skin weaker and more sensitive. Using many skin care products makes it more difficult to control the acne treatment process.
We should prioritize treatment. Skin care, dark spot treatment, or scar removal should be done later. During this period, we prioritize using liquid or gel products to help the products absorb quickly and the skin is clear.
When acne appears a lot, you should stop your skin care routine. Wash your face three times per day with physiological saline (NaCl 0.9%) for three consecutive days. This is to disinfect and help the skin rebalance. Note that you should not overuse physiological saline because it can cause dry skin and lose the natural moisture of the epidermis.
You can build a skin care process during this period as follows:
– Double cleansing (Makeup remover / facial cleanser)
– Toner: Rebalances skin conditions after washing your face.
– Special treatment: That means the acne treatment product you are using. However, you should follow the instructions in step 3.
– You can bring mineral spray to help keep your skin cool and moisturized regularly.
3.3. Reduce frequency of using AHA, BHA, PHA
If you are worried about out-of-control acne, you can apply products containing AHA, BHA, or PHA to acne spots or areas of skin with the most acne. After the acne is gone, continue treating another area.
The frequency is also worth noting. Based on the level of acne, adjust accordingly. If your skin is healthy and has a small amount of acne, you can use it every day. If your skin is sensitive and has lots of acne, you can only use it at night or every other day.
You can help your skin gradually get used to the above active ingredients by gradually changing the types of products containing AHA, BHA, and PHA:
- First, use only facial cleanser.
- After a while, use toner.
- Once you get more used to it, switch to using gel, cream, or serum containing AHA, BHA, or PHA.
Important: If your skin is too sensitive or has been seriously damaged, at first you should only use products containing 2% of the above active ingredients.
3.4. Combined with other ingredients
AHA, BHA, and PHA do not always bring good results. Treatment results also depend on the patient (skin type, genetics).
For situations that are not too serious, just ensure hygiene and apply the instructions above.
But in severe and complicated cases, sometimes dermatology and medical facilities will give patients other medications. Common ingredients are benzoyl peroxide and sulfur. They may also prescribe topical antibiotics such as erythromycin and clindamycin.
3.5. Gentle moisturizing
While using these active ingredients, you may experience dry and peeling skin.
Another case is the secretion of more oil than usual. This is the skin’s self-protection mechanism. When the skin is too dry, the sebaceous glands will work hard to regenerate the oil layer on the surface, preventing the skin from evaporating.
Follow note number 2 about simplifying your skin care routine. You should prioritize using moisturizing products with a light texture, such as toner, serum, gel, and mineral spray.
We also should not apply extreme moisture during this period because it can have the opposite effect.
Important: There has long been a popular myth in the community that using moisturizers containing silicon will clog pores and make acne worse. But there are many studies that have proven the opposite. For patients with acne and rosacea, products containing silicone may reduce skin redness, stinging, or irritation.
READ MORE: Misunderstanding About Silicon in Cosmetics
3.6. Limit the application of sunblock
There are 3 types of sunscreen, including the physical type (which creates a protective layer on the skin), the chemical type (which penetrates into the skin), and the third type (which is a combination of the other two types).
During acne treatment with AHA, BHA, and PHA, the skin becomes sensitive and needs ventilation. If you use KCN at this time, it is easy to cause skin congestion or further skin irritation.
Remember to protect yourself from the sun carefully. Only use sunscreen in cases of force majeure. Otherwise, you can wear a mask, hat, or umbrella when going out.
